Mt Olympus: Return to the Blue Glacier

Four years ago some Scouting friends and I attempted to climb Mt. Olympus. It was a stellar experience which introduced me to the monarch of the Olympic Mountains. I was impressed by all of the gems that were found along the route. Starting with the awe inspiring old growth along the Hoh River Valley, followed with an incredible crossing over the Hoh River, and then the beautiful Blue Glacier and it's incredible ice-fall, this climb offered so much.


I knew that I wanted to return, so I scheduled a Mazama climb starting the first weekend in August. Having already visited this area, I knew it would be demanding. It is a 18 mile backpack to the Blue Glacier. While Olympus is just 7969 feet tall, the trailhead is at 573 feet, making the elevation gain significant. Along the way our team was constantly helping each other heft our heavy backpacks to our backs.



Just short of the Glacier Meadows campsite we had to carefully descend down a rope ladder into a gulley that has been plagued by avalanches.


At Glacier Meadows we awoke early from our slumber and made our way up to the crest of the lateral moraine of the Blue Glacier. Even though I had been here before the sight of the glacier and the Snow Dome took my breath away. The glacier was in excellent condition from crossing, with most of the crevasses still sealed away by a thick layer of snow.


Despite this we still were roped up as we ascended the Snow Dome, passed through Crystal Pass, and went up and over the False Summit.



When I was here earlier I had not liked the look of the 4th class scramble across the east side of the West Peak, so I had lugged the rock climbing gear to climb up the low 5th class Crows Nest on the east side of the summit block. The pitch was short but it gave me a good challenge. Soon I was at the summit. I was able place my trusty Pink Tricam and build a good anchor for the rope that the others would use to protect their ascent.


We were blessed with outstanding weather and surrounded by the snow capped peaks of the Olympic Range. In the distance we could see Mount Rainier and the low clouds that covered the Pacific Ocean and the river valleys. We carefully rappelled down the same route that climbed and prepared for the long march home. Our summit day was a long one, but we were back at base camp before headlamps were necessary.

I had planned for a two day hike out so we could savor this wonderful landscape. On our final night we camped out on the Hoh River gravel bar and enjoyed a campfire.

During much of my journey here I thought about those who accomplied me here during my first trip here. So to Scott, Kristine, Anton and Anne I am grateful to you for helping me make this a successful climb.

Mt Stuart: Cascadian Couloir

Most of the major peaks in the Pacific Northwest are volcanoes. However, in Washington's Central Cascades you can find one notable exception: Mount Stuart. At 9415 feet Mount Stuart is the second highest non-volcanic peak in Washington State. It has been pronounced the largest mass of exposed granite in the United States and it features are variety of routes of varying difficulty.


We approached Stuart from the South Side, which lacks the glaciers and technical difficulty of the North side. However, as you can see from the photo above, there are numerous gulleys that can confuse the unprepared. Our route, the Cascadian Couloir, is considered the descent route for other routes but should not be underestimated.

Due to lingering snow we had the luxury of ascending the couloir via moderate angled snow slopes. Normally climbing parties cut underneath the false summit and scramble to the true summit.


We were able to ascending all the way to the false summit and then traverse across delightful granite most of the way to the summit.


As we approached the summit we could appreciate the shear drop off to the north down into the Enchantments.

From the summit the glory of the North Cascades unfurled below us. We could see as far as Mt Adams to the south and I am certain that Canada was within our gaze. The surrounding area was studded with snow covered mountain peaks.

During our descent a couple of snowflakes fell upon us momentarily. Perhaps it was the mountains reminding us of the influence they have upon the weather.

I had scheduled a day after our summit push to hike out over Longs Pass and to the trailhead. In retrospect I was glad to do so. Our basecamp was on the edge of a pleasant meadow that many of us took the time to enjoy and contemplate.

Pedalpalooza: Hott Sock Ride

Unfortunately my Mt Deception climb suffered the same fate as Mt Ellinor and Mt Shasta. Canceled due to weather. So this evening I hoped on my bike and joined the Hot Socks ride.



The ride started on the (recently re-opened) Eastside Esplanade and had a color assortment of socks. Any guesses which ones that I was wearing? Hint, it was not the Bimbo socks....


This pair was the cat's meow...


and check out the skulls on these socks...


Here is a pair that is quite fitting for a bike ride.


But we were not just spinning our wheels. The first stop was at the store Sock Dreams in Southeast Portland for refreshments, a raffle, and some fun relay races.


Then we traveled to the Central Eastside Industrial District to the distribution center for Sock it to Me for another round of refreshments and relay games. Your truly did quite well with the marsh-mellow toss. And it was a hoot to watch others attempt to put on 25 socks.

Pedalpalooza: Sunset Heron Ride

Have you ever wanted to ride your bike on a golf course? Well, I got the chance while participating in the Sunset Heron Ride in North Portland. This ride was part of Pedalpalooza, which is more than two weeks of bike rides in Portland with various themes.


Our ride started out at the foot of the Paul Bunyan Statue in the Kenton Neighborhood. What followed was a mellow ride through the Heron Lakes Golf Course and along the Columbia Slough Trail.


Our first stop was at Force lake, were we watched the swallows skimming over the lake, eating their body weight in insects. It was also trilling to watch a Great Blue Heron (the Portland city bird) fly across the lake.


Then we continued on to the Great Blue Heron Rookery at the 7th hole of the golf course. For those of you who were wondering what I'm talking about, a rookery is a collect of nests. We also spotted a Flicker.


It was very pleasant to bike along in the evening twilight. There was a slight breeze that rustled the reeds that surrounded the various bodies of water. The only disappointment about this ride that very few participants were interested in going out for a drink afterwards. Even the person that won a free beer by being the first to spot a Great Blue Heron.

Saddle Mountain

In his fine trail guide of the Olympic Mountains the late Robert L Wood notes that the summit of Mt Olympus is "...one of the few points where one can stand and see both the ocean and Mount Rainier." For years I have wondered where those other points may be and I today I confirmed one of them. Ironically, it is a place I have know most of my life, Saddle Mountain in Oregon's Coastal Range.


The plan was to lead a climb up Mount Shasta, but the climb was canceled on account of bad weather and avalanche conditions. I had looked to Middle Sister as an alternative, but lingering winter conditions and a sudden rise in the temperature made avalanche conditions in the Cascades unacceptable as well. So Saturday I tended to my yard and Sunday I laced up my hiking boots.

The lower elevations of the trail were lush with Oxalis and pink bleeding hearts.


On the upper slopes I saw plenty of red paintbrush....


Seep Monkeyflower...



and some others that I could not identify (any help would be gladly taken).


On the summit we were thrilled by a helicopter fly-by thanks to the Coast Guard. Conditions were so good that for the first time I could see Mts. Rainier, the Goat Rock Wilderness Peaks, Adams, St Helens, and Hood. Next time I'll have to see if I can spot Jefferson. Even more significant for me was that I could look across the Columbia River and see the Olympic Mountains!

Also highly recommended a short spur trail just 0.25 miles after the trailhead. This will take you to a viewpoint that has a grand view of the mountain. I also saw good sized snake soaking up the sunshine. I guess we're not the only ones thankful for the improvement in the weather.

Take this Sluggy...

The slugs have been continuing their assault on in the red cabbage in my garden. This time my latest salvo will be High Gravity.



I hope they will enjoy its distinctly bold taste.

Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program 2011

Between late April and early May most of my spare time has been focused on leading a group of 10 students through the Mazamas Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP). It has been 10 days since our final lecture and since then I have been digesting the events of this endeavor. Leading a BCEP group was a very positive thing for me last year. It was such a great experience that in the back of my mind I was wondering if this year would live up to the previous year. I am pleased to report that this was indeed the case.


One of the assistant instructors suggested that we have a team nickname. I thought that was a brilliant idea. After tossing around a variety of ideas our team selected the "Glissade Brigade".


BCEP is an intense and time demanding experience. In a period of seven weeks there are six lectures, six conditioning hikes, an Introduction to Rock Climbing, a snow climbing field session and a rock climbing field session. In addition the Glissade Brigade spent an evening learning knots, another practicing navigation at Portland's Mount Tabor Park, and spent one evening hanging out at the rock gym. We had three weekends where there was a BCEP activity both Saturday and Sunday. I must have packed my backpack countless times.

Basically I followed the same format from the previous year. The biggest change was that we had the Introduction to Rock Climbing at the brand new instructional climbing wall at the Mazamas Mountaineering Center. Our snow climbing field session took place early in the class in the White River Canyon. We could not practice at Timberline as in past years due to avalanche conditions, but we made the best of the situation.


The bulk of the time is spent on conditioning hikes. The aim of these hikes is not just to get into shape for scaling the heights of the mountain peaks but to practice skills related to alpine climbing. As much as possible we would pull out our maps and compass to practice navigation skills. For one hike I put in a fixed line so everyone could practice using their prusik friction knot. We even worked in a rappel on this hike. While hiking the Glissade Brigade learned how to measure snow slopes to appraise avalanche conditions, adjust their gear for the demanding weather, and make decisions on when to continue hiking or turn back. We even followed the Easter Bunny up Dog Mountain!


Speaking of weather, the Glissade Brigade weathered the elements in good fashion. Our first conditioning hike started out with strong rain. We had two weekends where we saw radical shifts in the weather. For our Snow Field Session it was overcast, snowy and windy only to be followed by a beautiful blue sky hiking up the Palmer snow field the next day. Another weekend we had a gorgeous day climbing on rock at Horsethief Butte followed by overcast skies and light rain on Dog and Augsperger Mountains.



Just like last year, I was blessed with a stellar group of assistant instructors. They gave me new ideas that improved the program. It was very rewarding to me to have four of the graduates from last year's BCEP group join me. They provided valuable insights of their experience last year, which was helpful to me. It was also a joy to watch them step up and apply the skills that they learned last year. I also had some experienced assistants that added so much to the program that we offered.


I am very grateful to the assistants and students (now graduates) of the Glissade Brigade. I appreciated the laughs, fellowship, and experiences that we shared. I am thankful for all that we accomplished together. Climb on!